Saturday, March 27, 2021

South Africa: The Wild West and The Wild Coast…

Home Page: Willmore Adventures in South Africa

Wild seems to be an appropriate word to describe the start to this year. Whether it’s been a lost hippo roaming the streets of our neighbouring suburb Fourways; a brush with the darker side of humanity and life in the city of Johannesburg; or an experience in the most remote and untouched part of South Africa; It Has Been Wild!

Just your average local news...

There was a two-week delay to the start of the school year out here in SA as we rode the second wave of Covid (which was just as well with a hippo on the loose). We decided to have some batteries wired up to the mains electricity due to government power outages being ever more frequent. As a result of this power supply unpredictability, batteries are in high demand as well as being an expensive commodity. In a population where so few can afford them, and at a time where job security is so fragile, crime is unfortunately inevitable. Our engineer, Neville, fitted ours without a problem, but as he returned to complete the job on the second day, fully laden with the batteries for his next client, he was hijacked at our security gate by two gunmen who stole his van, with the batteries inside, and drove over him as they got away. Thank goodness he was just bruised and shaken up, and not more seriously hurt, and thank goodness for a security check point before our house, otherwise the action would have unfolded in our front garden, with all the children at home learning remotely. South African’s are hardy folk, because they have to be, and so within two days of his ordeal, Neville was back to finish the job, albeit staying alert and in a bit of pain. It is without doubt the darker side of South African life and a product of the wealth divide ever present in day-to-day life. For one day it came uncomfortably close, and our little estate became like the Wild West!

Home learning: the 2021 way...

The entrance to our estate and the
spot where our engineer was hijacked.


In February we joined Laurence’s university friends for a long weekend camping on the Wild Coast. A place so remote it took twelve hours to drive there, along dirt roads, through jungle, and around goats, cows, pigs, chickens, and the occasional machete wielding four-year-old! We shared a beach with a herd of cows and goats, and a river with some jumping fish. The children roamed wild from dawn til dusk, only to return for food. To the local tribe it is called Pondo Land and is the area that Nelson Mandela grew up. To me it is the most beautiful place on Earth, and I could have stayed forever…


An African rondavel. Country living.

Our descent into Manteku Camp, Wild Coast.


A beach to ourselves...

Except for the herd of cows and goats!

At the mouth of the Mzintlava River.

Joel as my spotter on the canoe.

Manteku Camp.

A local Pondo lady using a poykie pot
 to cook traditional bread.

All the kiddies playing together on the sand dune.

We have been lucky enough to squeeze in a second weekend away camping this March, before Summer finally draws to a close. Just north of Johannesburg, in Magaliesburg, there are some beautiful gorges, so we went hiking and rock pooling there with friends. At the campsite we were raided routinely at dawn by a troop of monkeys which, as Brits and therefore new to this experience, we thoroughly enjoyed. Our unfortunate teenage camping neighbours, who were yet to rise one morning, had three monkeys sitting like humans in their camping chairs and hammock, helping themselves to some pringles left out on the table from the night before. A South African man, who was perhaps not enjoying the moment like us fresh faced foreigners, came bounding out from behind a bush to spoil the party; with arms spread wide, carrying a rock in either hand, and making deep guttural grunting noises like a big monkey, he scared the party revellers away! If ever there was a real life ‘Animal Farm’ moment, this was it!


The girls enjoying a rock slide in the river.


Rock pooling in the gorge.

A monkey hanging out with us on our car.

So, there we have it…wild animals, wild humans, and a wild world. South Africa has it all in spades, and the Wild Willmore’s are fitting right in…

Lots of love to the Northern Hemisphere as you finally emerge from winter. I hope Easter is a truly joyous celebration.  Let the Covid compliant Spring and Summer adventures begin!

Jess xxx

Next post: From Beetroot to Bushmen

Previous post: Pinkies and Penguins


New uniform for Amelie and
Elowen in Grades 5 and 4.

Back to school for Joel for his
3rd year in Kindergarten with his
 lovely teacher Mrs Cardoso.

Just a nice photo, having coffee at Mugg and Bean.

Birthday celebrations for me,
with half of Laurence's siblings...

With Ann and Caroline, friends and fellow teachers.
Saying a fond farewell to Caroline as she
returns to the UK (and into hotel quarantine).

My wonderful hockey team at the end
of a great summer season.

Easter celebrations for Joel
at his Waldorf Steiner School.


Monday, December 28, 2020

Pinkies and Penguins


It’s been rather a while since writing my last post, and it’s a house move that has kept us busy. Add to this a break in Cape Town with Laurence’s sisters, a few trips to hospital with Joel and Amelie, and an expensive lightning strike, and you will have a complete picture of Willmore life in South Africa these past four months.
Cape Town, 2020

Let us begin with the hospital trips… Way back in September, when life was no less simple, we decided to take the children ice skating to celebrate Amelie’s 10th birthday. Outnumbered three children to two adults, we stepped on to the ice; and with the dangerous combination of over confidence and lack of skill, we began our ice-skating adventure. A rogue plastic penguin spinning out of control towards Joel was to begin the day’s drama, as it caused him to fall, and in turn caused Elowen to skate over his finger. Ouch! One child off to hospital. Laurence and the girls continued their speed skating extravaganza weaving through the crowds and building on their once-a-year experience on ice. Suddenly, someone skated across Amelie’s path forcing her to perform the lesser known ‘shoulder on ice’ stop, a.k.a. a nasty shoulder breaking fall. Off to a different hospital with Amelie we went (to preserve parental dignity) to end what was a somewhat disastrous birthday outing, but one quite fitting for the year 2020.

Joel with his pinkie glued together

Amelie in a sling with a nasty crack
to her humerus 

We escaped Johannesburg in the school holidays that followed, for a break in Cape Town, and stayed with Laurence’s sisters, who live in this coastal capital city, and who indulge in the surfing, snorkeling, sailing, and trail running lifestyle that is on offer. Cape Town lies on the South West tip of Africa where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic Ocean. The latter is a lot colder and fiercer, so with children in tow, and my love of ice-cold water waning, we opted for the beaches on the Indian Ocean side, and truly embraced the magic of the seaside. With South Africa’s borders still shut at this point and therefore beaches quite empty, we indulged in rock climbing at Windmill Beach, an area of outstanding natural beauty; being chased by waves at Fish Hoek; burying Joel in the sand at Llandudno; and even seeing real penguins in their natural habitat near Boulders Beach; it was the perfect antidote to six months inside, (and an opportunity for Joel to make his peace with the penguins).

Rock climbing at Windmill Beach


Being chased by waves at Fish Hoek

A Joel head on Llandudno Beach

A baby penguin in the bushes
surrounding Boulders Beach

The calm of Cape Town was to precede the storm of Johannesburg, metaphorically and literally, as we prepared to move to a new house in October, and as we entered Johannesburg’s season of stormy weather. It was a stressful move, as they always are, and it was sad to say goodbye to our little community (or cluster) of ten houses, but it was exciting to move out of a rental and into a house of our own; a beautiful, thatched house that could be mistaken for a game lodge if it were not for the surrounding suburbia. Eight days into house ownership, and in the middle of a game of hide and seek however, a particularly ferocious storm arrived. Safe in the knowledge that our thatch has a lightning conductor to protect it, we innocently carried on with our game, naïve to our impending doom! The lightning struck us with an almighty crack, causing the house alarm to ring out, the lights to go off and the children to emerge from cupboards screaming. It was the ground that was hit, and with an electric gate, fence, and sprinkler system on a long list of things to repair, we have learnt that electrics in a Johannesburg house require surge protection and a lot of crossed fingers during an electrical storm. Let’s hope the saying rings true that lightning never strikes the same place twice, and that our next game of hide and seek is somewhat less dramatic!


Goodbye Bishopstone

Hello Acacia House!

Testing out the new pool...

The Buttercup 2 Preschool in the township of Cosmo City has gone from strength to strength in the last three months. October saw many newcomers as people started to find work again post lockdown and require childcare. With fourteen children attending, and many more signed up to start in 2021, a new room is being built by the landlord to accommodate the growing preschool. It is quite an incredible turn around and would not have been possible without support from the UK, so thank you very much to all those who have helped over the course of this year.

So, as we come to the end of a crazy, unpredictable year, and the end to our second year of Willmore Adventures in South Africa, there is a real sense of Mother Nature being at the centre of it all. For us it has been in her awesome beauty in Cape Town, her incredible power in an electrical storm in Johannesburg, and her ability to bring society to a standstill with the global pandemic. There have been many reactions to this pandemic, but the support shown to Buttercup 2 Preschool from my friends in the UK is something to treasure, and a light in the darkness of 2020.

I hope you all had a peaceful Christmas in whatever form that took, and I look forward, with hope, to a better 2021 for everyone.

Lots of love,

Jess xxx

Next post: South Africa: The Wild West and The Wild Coast...

Previous post: Guns and Masks...and School?!

A few extra photos...

Spring celebrations at school
back in September



Joel's Spring Celebration

No time to get changed at Muizenburg Beach!

Some classic sand castling on
Windmill Beach, Cape Town

Sibling love at Llandudno

Finding washed up starfish at Fish Hoek

A bit of seaweed dragging
 at Fish Hoek


Meeting up with Laurence's Varsity buddies

A walk around the foot of Table Mountain with Laurence's
sisters, Gina and Ash, and brother in law, Phil.

The Gibson Family - Laurence's step dad and mum

November - Joel turns six!





Thursday, August 27, 2020

Guns and Masks…and School?!

Home Page: Willmore Adventures in South Africa

If someone had mentioned guns and masks and schools in the same sentence six months ago, the assumption would have been that it was probably an incident in America, and never to do with safety. But here in South Africa it’s actually government policy to have just that. Temperature taken on arrival at school, and masks to be worn at all times. With a temperature gun held to your head however, it’s difficult not to break out into a sweat! Here’s our update from the Southern Hemisphere…

School rules during Covid...

Schools returned in June, which was a heartily celebrated affair in the Willmore household. Who would have thought that the aforementioned mask wearing and temperature checks, along with social distancing and washing hands all day long would be a more inviting prospect than remaining home with parents? Or was it that those parents painted a rosy picture of seeing friends again at school, to regain some sort of balance and control in the house once more…

Elowen on the first day back at school.

Amelie having her temperature taken.

Day 1 complete.

Joel returned to his school in July on a part time basis. The class was split, with the two groups alternating days. He too has had to wear his little mask and adhere to all the protocols put in place (whilst making sand cakes or singing merrily with friends).

Joel's first day back at school.

The Steiner school welcome back.

Both schools have had cases of Covid 19 in staff and pupils as schools have been up and running in the peak of the crisis. Joel’s school chose to shut whilst the girls’ school deep cleaned the specific classrooms and stayed open. The drills are so slick now that we can transition between going to school and working online at the drop of a hat. We received a text one morning saying that the girls’ school would be online that day due to transport strikes in the area, and 30 minutes later, the kitchen was transformed into a studio, and Elowen was learning a dance routine with her teacher over Microsoft Teams. Twenty first Century life in South Africa when you can afford the fast lane.

Elowen in her online dance lesson.

The school where I teach reading and writing, Riversands Primary School, in the township of Diepsloot, has not had such a straightforward transition. With children crammed into classrooms and desks spilling out of doors, complying with regulations has made it impossible for all children to return. Students in the most important grades have spread out into more than their allocated classrooms leaving lower grades without a place to learn, and therefore without school. The classroom where I and several other volunteers teach, is currently being used for grade 7, so our grade 2s are going without… It’s a real tragedy and the gulf between the haves and the have nots continues to grow…

Many people have lost their jobs in South Africa due to Covid 19 and so unemployment has soared. For Tari, my friend who runs the Buttercup 2 Preschool in the township of Cosmo City, this has meant that not only was she forced to close during lockdown, but that the hardship continues, as people no longer require childcare, as they themselves have no work. And so, whilst she is open for business, currently only 4 children from 15 have returned. With a team of school and church friends in the UK helping me, we are continuing to support Tari as she offers a special place for those at the start of their education in Cosmo City, and 4 precious children are at least receiving that care.

Tari at the preschool entrance.

Meeting up in Cosmo, in preparation of the preschool opening.

As soon as parks and open spaces became legal to visit in South Africa in July, we raced to the countryside. Having visited a few at the beginning of the year with a rather unconvinced Elowen, we thought we would return for a much-needed change of scenery. Remembering the luscious greenery, flowing rivers, bird hides and much more, we excitedly set off for the Modderfontein Nature Reserve. As we approached however, (along with the rest of Johannesburg it turned out), the area wasn’t looking as attractive as we remembered it to be. We started our walk as Laurence explained that the lack of rain in winter in Johannesburg, means that controlled fires are used to burn the dry land to prevent any wildfires from spreading without warning. I must admit, rather than escaping a pandemic, I felt like I was walking through nature's version of one. Either that or we had been transported into Michael Jackson’s Earth Song video, which is a song that I of course proceeding to wail at the top of my voice as we walked along, much to Laurence’s displeasure. A aa aaaa…you’re welcome to join in with me, ha ha! It was so lovely to get out though and a real breath of fresh air. 

At the burnt to a crisp Modderfontein Nature Reserve.

Around about the time I broke out into Earth Song!


With Amelie, having a rest at Modderfontein.

As we come to the end of August, and the end of a bitterly cold winter, I hope that spring is a bit kinder to South Africa. I hope that the numbers of those with the virus continue to drop having surged in July; that schools be available for all students young and old; that work opportunities open up so that Tari sees more little ones returning to preschool; and that nature and us humans can flourish in harmony, as we find a new normal. One can wish…

We have been somewhat green-eyed as we’ve watched Europe open up and enjoy the summer, but we know that challenges still lie ahead up there. Good luck for those with a transition back to school soon, and lots of love to those still isolating or feeling the effects of Covid.

Jess x

Next post: Pinkies and Penguins

Previous post: Alcohol is Banned...?

A few extra photos from the last two months...

An outdoor meet after 5 months of not seeing Laurence's siblings.

Dragging the kids away from Minecraft to donate
to a feeding program run from a local church.

The absolute irony of a wall of toilet rolls
denying the sale of alcohol during the pandemic.

A toast to alcohol being back on sale in mid August.