Saturday, August 31, 2019

When building a wall is a good thing…


An extra special post for an extra special month.

Without a hard hat in sight, and for some helpers, no shoes on their feet, this past month has been spent building an outdoor space for a preschool in the heart of a township. It’s been exciting, frustrating, exhausting but ultimately hugely satisfying; and we are days away from opening the doors to the newly upgraded Buttercup 2 Preschool. But before we get too excited, let's start at the beginning…

On a hot and sunny day (most likely) in March of this year, I was just dropping Joel off at his first preschool in South Africa, Buttercup in Lonehill, when a new coffee stand caught my eye. At 7.45 in the morning I was naturally attracted to the idea of a morning fix but was also intrigued as to why it had appeared. The lady selling coffee explained that the wife of one of the handymen at the school had set up a preschool in the township of Cosmo City and that they were raising money for it. I was naturally excited by the idea of this and it occurred to me that Joel’s preschool in the UK might also want to do some fundraising as well. Julie and the Shirley Preschool Team were instantly on board and so I organised for the handyman, Martin, to sneak me into the township to ask his wife, Tari, if there was something specific we could fund-raise for. On a hot and sunny day (most likely) a week later, he drove me through the bustling streets of Cosmo City where pedestrians, cars, taxis, and sewage flowing from burst pipes, were jostling for their place on the street. We arrived unscathed and I entered the government-built house that Martin and Tari live in, and in which they use the second bedroom to house the preschool. The room is about 3 metres by 3 metres, which feels about the size of a third bedroom in a 1930’s semi-detached house in the UK; and on that first day, 15 little faces sat sweetly waiting for my arrival. I spent some time with the children before chatting to Tari about their needs at the preschool. At this point I was thinking about equipment, maybe some books or some educational toys, as they literally have nothing, but the response was, “we really need an outdoor space”. Hopefully my panic didn’t show through as I took a tour of the plot to see what we could do. As with most township properties, any surrounding space has little outbuilding rooms built on to it which people live in, with a communal bathroom. This plot had a little corner enclosed by two outbuildings and a wall that was the potential spot. So, I drew up a plan with Tari for some fencing and a gate, and to put up some shade. My anxiety had subsided, and the project was good to go.
The gorgeous Buttercup 2 preschoolers.
I waited until June to get going as April and May were filled with netball, soccer and hockey; and Martin and Tari were away visiting family in Zimbabwe.

Just before I started, we had a public holiday in South Africa called Youth Day, which I had assumed was a day to celebrate the youth, a bit like Mother’s Day or Father’s Day. It was a day, however, that changed my approach to the preschool project and an important moment to include in its creation. I attended our local church, Gracepoint, which looks a bit like a game lodge with animals’ heads on the walls, but beautiful artistic ones, to find out more about this celebrated day. The children went off to Sunday school and I sat in the main hall. After a few songs we sat to watch a film and anyone with children in the room was asked to take them out. Armed with my British naivety I thought that maybe the film had a bit of swearing in it, but to my horror, we proceeded to watch a re-enactment of a massacre of the youth who were passively protesting in 1976 about being educated in Afrikaans, which the Apartheid Government at the time had decided to enforce. Whilst quietly weeping to myself and deciding that the warning should have asked all children and British people to leave the room, my weeping quickly turned to panic as all the Sunday school children began walking into the hall to encircle the congregation, each clutching a lit candle, and that one of these children was Joel. Thankfully there was only one child that ran out clutching their chin, whilst we listened to some of the children read poems and talk about the rights of children to an education, as they are the future of South Africa. They gave the analogy that those sitting in the shade of a tree, planted for them by a previous generation, must actively bring those out of the scorching heat and into the shade, that they themselves enjoy. I reflected that Amelie, Elowen and Joel sit in this shade, as do I, and it was at this moment that I decided they too should be a part of this preschool project even if taking them into the heart of a township was potentially a dangerous thing to do.


Amelie came with me on the first day of work. I had spent the days leading up to this moment watching Youtube clips on how to build a brick wall as the wall that was due to support some fencing, had fallen down. Amelie spent the morning hammering off cement from reclaimed bricks followed by an afternoon of dancing in the street with a tape measure. I successfully built a brick wall and came home exhausted but very pleased with myself. It had been a brilliant first day…or so I had thought…
Amelie chipping cement off reclaimed bricks.

Building a wall
using my Youtube expertise!
That evening we had a call from Tari saying that the house owner wanted to sell the property and that Martin and Tari would have to find a new house and location for the preschool. I was really frustrated that this had suddenly happened, but I tried to conceal it as their problem was far greater than mine. A few weeks passed and I received another phone call saying that a new location had been found but it had a much bigger outdoor space to enclose. I visited the site several times to meet the owner, William, to establish where any underground pipe work might be, and to design the new space. It required a lot of walls, fencing and gates, just to secure the area. The project had grown arms and legs, and I was a long way from just donating some books and toys. But nevertheless, I agreed to do it, but by now it had become a really intimidating task. I had also by this point asked our church in the UK, the St James Road Methodist Church, to support the project, which they were duly very happy to do.
The Plan

The preschool site.
The open door up the steps is the new preschool room.

The reverse view from the preschool door looking out.
Day One arrived again, and I went with Joel to start on the first wall. A foundation for a perimeter wall had been laid years ago but beyond that I was starting from scratch. Joel helped bring me bricks from a pile of reclaimed ones, as I mixed the cement and began to build the wall. I felt stressed and alone at this point, which was repeatedly heightened by the presence of a low hanging washing line that I kept getting my hair tangled in. Joel migrated to the street to play with the local children after his initial concern that they were outside without their grown-ups. I at least enjoyed watching him play with the children, who were running about bare foot, with rubbish and broken glass strewn everywhere. I went home not able to see how I would get this project finished. I had a deadline of September.
Joel playing with the local children.
On Day Two I arrived early, frantically thinking about what I had to do. As I pulled up at the site, I felt a clunk. And as I got out of the car it dawned on me what I had done, I had driven over the wall I had built the previous day and knocked it down at one end. This was perhaps my lowest point, and after moving the bricks into a pile and finding a dead rat, I headed straight home. After receiving a text from Tari asking me where the wall had gone, I decided I needed help.

Nelson, a friend of Martin and Tari’s who I had asked to make a steel security gate, was also a brick layer and all-round everything man. So, I spoke with him about the walls and he was very happy to help. It was great to have someone else there on site, and Nelson, with his brother in law, worked swiftly erecting the walls. I had a man called Trevor make some pallet fencing and gates, and before we knew it the outdoor space was coming together.
Nelson sitting by the first wall with his brother-in-law.

Nelson building the first wall.

The walls finished!

Bringing the pallet fencing to the preschool.

Nelson, having just made the security gate,
 outside his home in Cosmo.

Our wonderful friends, the Hamilton's from our church in the UK, came to visit, bearing lots of gifts for the preschool, and who kindly gave up a day of their holiday to help with the project. With all our children in tow, we descended on the preschool to paint some of the fencing, and to start digging a sandpit. After a hard day's work, the preschool with all its colour, was now looking great. We even, incredibly, met up with Julie from the Shirley Preschool, who came out to South Africa on holiday.
The children priming the fence.

Painting on the wonderful Buttercup colours.

The start of the sandpit.

Elowen and friends shovelling out the earth.

Amelie having a turn.

Joel found the dead rat!
The final push was back to just me, which meant that it was back to slow progress. But by now I was familiar with all the families on the plot and I had offers of help, particularly from Tari and her daughter, Clementine, and a young man called Ronald. We continued with the painting, spent a long time levelling the ground, and laying the lawn. We even had an uninvited visitor...a red scorpion!
Painting the primer on before the colour.

Ronald putting primer on one of the gates.

With Ronald and Tari levelling and preparing the ground
 for the lawn to be laid.

Laying the lawn!

Our little uninvited friend, the scorpion!

A lot of people in South Africa come from Zimbabwe, and Ronald is one of these displaced people. Everyone's life here is unimaginable. Ronald was orphaned before he was ten because of AIDS and works in South Africa to support his grandmother and his brother. He's just twenty and I've loved working with him as have I loved working with Nelson, also from Zim, and getting to know his family.

So, we have reached the end of August, and like an unsatisfying end to a Kevin McCloud Grand Designs, we haven't quite finished. We will need another week before it is ready for children, and a further week of work whilst the children are there, which I will update you on in a future blog. But for now, here is a picture of Buttercup 2.
With Tari and Ronald laying the grass.
So close to being finished!
On the days that I’ve been over to Cosmo City, whether it’s been moving or laying bricks, painting fencing or digging a sandpit, levelling the ground and laying lawn, I’ve really enjoyed meeting the locals and getting to know them as they’ve migrated towards the action. It’s difficult hearing people’s stories and knowing that life is so hard for so many people. But hopefully this little preschool, Buttercup 2, has provided locals with work and given them a wage to support their families; has given Tari a bigger and better business with which to support her own young family; and has given families in the UK an insight into life in Africa plus a brilliant cause to support. But most importantly, it has given these 15 children of Cosmo City and those that will follow, a happy, exciting and inspiring environment to be inquisitive learners in. I hope in a small way, Amelie, Elowen, Joel and I, with the support of Laurence and all those who've been involved, will have helped bring these township children out of the scorching heat and into the shade; after all, they are the future of this beautiful country.

Lots of love from Cosmo City, South Africa.

Jess xxx

The children with their new books.

Having fun with the preschoolers.
With Tari, the head of Buttercup 2, and a wonderful friend.

Nest post: Is it a Bird? Is it a Bulb? No, it's Dalmatian Number 3!

Previous post: There's Snow in Africa?




Thursday, July 18, 2019

There's snow in Africa?


In the depths of an African winter, we have continued to explore this awesome continent. We celebrated the winter solstice with a festival at Joel's school, followed by a wonderful skiing holiday high up in the Maloti Mountains, in the Kingdom of Lesotho. Not your average June or July, with the absence of Pimm's and Wimbledon, but some incredible experiences to treasure.

The second term at school ended in particular fashion as Joel's school celebrated the winter solstice with the Festival of St John. Originally to celebrate light in the height of summer in the Northern Hemisphere, it also suits a cold dark night with lanterns and a bonfire. At Joel's school, the children passing from primary to secondary school, which happens at thirteen in South Africa, celebrate their transition by lighting the bonfire with a javelin style throw of a torch, followed by a jump over the lit bonfire (A British health and safety crisis in the making).
The primary school children carrying their torches to the bonfire. 

The transition to secondary school with a jump through the fire
With only a few sizzling and smokey shoes later, it was everyone else's turn to take on the bonfire, and Amelie and Elowen were in their element as they charged over it. We followed many rounds of fire jumping with a warm soup in the school courtyard, which was lit up with lanterns and twinkling lights. I, all of a sudden, felt like I had been transported to a beautiful and atmospheric European Christmas market. I loved the Christmas spirit which I found had been absent in December, and was so happy to experience it, albeit in June.

Amelie and Elowen jumping over the bonfire.
Some of the school children's homemade lanterns.

In the school courtyard with the lanterns and lights.

Joel didn't come to the evening festivities as the nursery school children can only attend when they start primary school, but had their own mini festival during school time. Prior to experiencing the evening myself, I had assumed that Joel's day had involved some homemade lantern waving and a few songs, but after further investigation and to my surprise, it had also included some fire jumping as well. I had a chuckle to myself; of course it did, we are in Africa after all.

We entered into the school holidays enjoying the warm sunny days, and then wrapping up in blankets with hot water bottles, for the bitterly cold evenings. The girls enjoyed a week of holiday club at a local church, after which our exciting skiing holiday week began.

Laurence's school friend Mike, who I've enjoyed getting to know over the past thirteen years, and his amazing wife Yvette invited us to go on holiday with them, their daughter Rebecca, and their extended family. Laurence's youngest sister, Ashleigh, joined us from Cape Town and we also got to spend some precious time with her too. We began our drive to the remote ski resort in the Kingdom of Lesotho, a mountainous country inside of South Africa. We stayed in a little dorp called Bethlehem en route to the resort so that we could get there early for our first day of skiing. Knowing my frugal ways, Laurence was panicking slightly that I had booked us a stable, but he was proved wrong as we pulled up at an Inn, even if it was opposite Bethlehem's casino!

Off on holiday to Lesotho with Auntie Ash.
Afriski was amazing. The girls were whizzing down the slopes in no time. Elowen spotted a ski park full of lots of quite large and intimidating ski jumps that she decided she wanted to try. My response of, "Maybe one day", seemed to fall on deaf ears as she promptly skied into the park and landed a jump.  As the adult in charge at the time I felt obliged to follow suit even though my heart was in my mouth. I would rather not break my leg skiing again... The resort was small and relaxed, to the point that one day, over lunch, I looked over to the main slope only to see Amelie navigating a slalom course on her own. She did really well but the child supervision package that we'd booked was seemingly a rather loose term. Joel learnt to ski as he snow ploughed and turned down the slopes, which was so lovely to see. If given the choice though, he would have spent the whole week flying down the slopes on an inflatable rubber ring waving at anyone who would care to look in his direction. It was such a special and happy week together.

All three kids in their best spiderman pose
 and ready to ski, outside our lodge.

At the top of the main slope together.

With friends Mike and Yvette

Laurence and Ash on the slopes.

A moment together on the ski lift

Selfie with Elowen

Joel before a successful descent.

Joel in his rubber ring with the ski park in the background.


As with all great holidays, it was sad when it ended, and we began our journey home winding through the beautiful Maloti Mountains. It was amazing to pass through small mountain villages where people were wearing blankets and straw hats, which is the traditional dress in Lesotho. Cattle were pulling carts; people were collecting grass for the roofs of their round houses; men were herding cattle, goats, donkeys and sheep; and children played on the mountain side. We even passed a sign pointing down a dusty track to a mission hospital. It was as rural as it gets, beautiful, and life looked to be extremely hard, particularly in the cold nights of winter. Once back across the boarder into South Africa, we had lunch in a peaceful and picturesque dorp called Clarens before heading home and back to reality.
A round house in the mountains of Lesotho.

A rural mountain village. 

The beautiful Maloti Mountains.

Lunch in the picturesque dorp of Clarens.

We are back to school and work now as Term 3 has begun this week.

It's been a magical month exploring traditions and cultures both at school and in Lesotho, and of course, action packed as ever with some memorable fast and furious skiing with family and friends.

We hope you are enjoying the glorious long summer evenings, all the summer festivals and events, holidays and special time with family and friends.

Lots of love, Jess xxx


Friday, June 7, 2019

There are Ants in my Sugar!


We have had a busy 6 weeks here in Africa. There’s been a general election, we’ve delved further into South African history, and burst onto the sporting scene as a family. Grandma has visited from the UK spending a lovely 2 weeks with us, and teaching at the township school is going well, as we reach mid-year and the end of Term 2.
Grandma Carol, visiting from the UK.

South African elections took place in May but realistically only ever have one winner, the African National Congress (ANC), the party formerly run by Nelson Mandela. It has a tall mountain to climb and has been marred with corruption in the last decade, but it does however have a good leader in Cyril Ramaphosa. There are those who are apathetic, those who are frustrated and those who are hopeful about politics and the future of South Africa. Election day is a public holiday here. Whilst we decided to go on safari for the day, people queued at polling stations to cast their vote. In South Africa, you can turn up at any polling station in the country to vote so the verification process for each person is quite lengthy. Everyone is marked with a black line on their thumb nail so that they cannot go to a different polling station to vote again. And social media is awash with photos of voting thumbs as people proudly state that they voted and encourage others to do so.
Propaganda from the biggest 3 parties.
The yellow poster is the ANC.
The ANC, who gained a majority in this year’s general election and who have been ruling for the last 25 years since the end of Apartheid, have an incredible history. Mum and I went to a suburb called Rivonia, which is 5 minutes from where we live in Lonehill, where a museum now stands on the property of an old farm called Lilieslief. Rivonia back in the early 60’s was a rural area occupied by only whites. The ANC, who had been driven underground by the ruling Afrikaans party, secretly bought the farm and covertly ran their head quarters from it. A white family lived in the farmhouse so as not to raise suspicions, and Nelson Mandela worked as Thomas, a farm helper. The ANC had tried for many years by passive means to bring about change in South Africa, but, as the rights for black people were withdrawn, the ANC felt the only way to make the Afrikaans party listen was by force. It was during a meeting where they were plotting to overthrow the government, that an unassuming dry-cleaning van pulled up at the farm. Out jumped the special forces, and the covert operation was over. ‘The Rivonia 10’, both black and white men, faced trial and it was from here that Nelson Mandela spent 27 years in prison, mostly on Robben Island. To top off what was an incredible morning, we sat chatting with a gentleman at the museum who told us that he himself had been imprisoned on Robben Island with Nelson Mandela for 6 years and that Mandela had taught him, with some resistance, that he must befriend ‘the enemy’, the whites, as they were also trapped in the system of Apartheid. A truly amazing story.

Luckily, the one thing that seems to subvert politics is sport and we have thoroughly immersed ourselves in it. Amelie has taken up netball with the girls at school, and after a few lessons in the garden, is absolutely flying, playing both attacking and defensive positions. 
Amelie after her 1st netball match.
Elowen was quite adamant that she wanted to play soccer with the boys. I was surprisingly reluctant to let her, as I had travelled that same path at her age and know the heartache that comes with being different. But she wasn’t fooled by my subtle coercion, and now stands proudly on the soccer pitch shoulder to shoulder (or shoulder to elbow, she’s tiny) with the boys. Go Elowen! 
Elowen getting stuck in at a soccer tournament.

With Grandma and Joel after a soccer match.
All 3 children are playing hockey for our local hockey club at Morningside Country Club. The girls have picked it up quickly and while Joel is happy to go along, he would rather stand with the stick up his top and with his back to the ball. Maybe he’ll be more inclined next year… 
Amelie, Elowen and Joel at a hockey tournament.

I have also started playing hockey again after a few years out, both with the same club as the children and with a Masters’ team (I qualify as a senior in sport!). The former is quite serious with training and a coach, the latter is more relaxed with drinks of the alcoholic variety consumed before, during and after the games. I’m not a drinker myself but it seems to work as we are on a winning streak!

At Riversands Primary School, which is where I teach twice a week, the children are making huge strides in their understanding of English and with their reading and writing. Little Naledi *, who started out this year with very little spoken English has made great progress. She not only knows the sounds of letters but can blend them together and reads 3 letter words beautifully. Her vocabulary has grown, and we have lots of chats about home and what she is learning. 

With little Naledi

Nkosi* however is harder work. He has a very good command of the English language but is really struggling to be able to blend sounds together. After speaking to my sister, Hannah, who is a Special Educational Needs Coordinator in the UK, I am now armed with some tools to help him and make learning fun. We are progressing, just at a slower rate. I’m sure we will get there.
Practising drawing letters in the sand with Nkosi

The charity which runs the reading and writing program, The Link, have 2 buildings on the school property. And sadly, they have both been broken into this past month, twice. The jacks supporting the portacabin have been stolen, and all the cables out of the second building were taken both times, along with our tea urn. It makes you realise what poverty is up against in this township school. Our buildings are now alarmed so hopefully it won’t happen again.

And talking of breaking in… When it starts getting cold outside here, the ants find a way of getting inside the house and become quite a problem. Like us humans they head straight for the sweets cupboard and start living their best life on the honey or in the sugar. I have found that white vinegar seems to disrupt the party, and so it has become my cleaning product of choice. As it begins to warm up again in September, hopefully they will disappear back outside. Until next year…

I hope you are all enjoying the warm summer days and long evenings. We are evermore aware of the incredible history of this country, the lasting effects on society, and all the wonderful sporting opportunities afforded to us out here. Even if it is chilly by night.

Lots of love, Jess xxx

* The children's names have been changed to protect their identity.