Wednesday, November 13, 2019

Hier Kom Die Bokke


October and early November saw us celebrate a whole year in Africa. With the familiarity of the spring blossoms in their vibrant colours, we have felt a greater connection to this little corner of the world. It wasn’t without it’s changes though as Laurence started a new job, no longer working for his company in the UK. Amelie and her grade at school put on a fabulous market day for some very eager shoppers in the other year groups, and South Africa has of course won a rather important rugby match.

Back in August, we received the news that Laurence would no longer be able to work remotely for his company in Africa, and that he would have to return to the UK. So, we had a decision to make. We straight away knew that now wasn’t the time to go home. We are settled, the children are happy, but most importantly, we are here to spend much needed time with Laurence’s family. Laurence’s dad, Geoff, has stage 4 cancer, and so taking that journey together with him, and as a family, is our priority right now. Laurence started his search for a job rather cautiously, in a country he’s never worked in before. To his surprise, where there’s a skills shortage, there are some great job opportunities! A company is funding Laurence to start a Tech Company, which is incredible, and I am very excited for him. It means he now must navigate Jo’burg traffic, but with his new Hyundai i10 (the smallest car on the planet), he nips about with ease. We like to think of him as the muscular and ridiculously good-looking superhero, Mr Incredible, squeezing into his car, but Mr Bean in his mini is another analogy that has crossed our minds.

Starting your own company is something that a lot of South African’s see as a way of surviving out here, where you can’t necessarily rely on the government for anything, and where there is 30% unemployment, (which compares to less that 4% in the UK). This entrepreneurial spirit is ingrained in them at school, where they are assessed on their creation of a market stall, products, packaging and advertising. As Amelie comes to the end of her time in the Foundation Phase at school (Infants equivalent), she and her fellow Grade 3 pupils had this very task. Amelie and her three firm friends started planning, and parents were asked to assist. I invited the girls round to our house and operations began. The Army Logistics Officer started to stir inside me and no sooner had the girls made signs and packaging, we had set up and were running a mock market stall at home. Amelie, Elowen and I painted rocks together to sell, which we loved, and Amelie stayed up late on a few occasions just because she was so absorbed in the task. The day was an absolute success and the girls stall, ‘The Dog Unicorn Universe’ Stall made R1025 (Rand), which is the equivalent to £54, and the year group made over £800 that they donated to CHOC, The Childhood Cancer Foundation. Well done those entrepreneurial Grade 3’s at Crawford Prep, Lonehill.
Mock stall in the run up to Market Day.

Rock painting together.

Market Day.
The Dog Unicorn Universe Stall up and running.

A happy customer!

South African unemployment is just one of many tragedies facing the country right now. With a population of 58 million, in 2018, the country suffered 21,022 homicides. In the UK we have a population of 66 million and during the same period suffered 701 homicides. The difference is stark, and the consequences of poverty a daily reality for so many. Even at the school where I teach, we lost one of our little 8-year-old students this week to either TB or AIDS or a combination of the two. As the volunteers we are devastated and wonder how often this happens to little children out here. It is knowing this, and for so many, experiencing this, that makes South Africa winning the Rugby World Cup a little bit sweeter. It was something to celebrate and something to own. And having a captain in Siya Kolisi, a man who rose up from the depths of a township, to defy poverty, and lead a nation, has given those born into similar circumstances a glimmer of hope that it is possible for them to do the same. Backing the Springboks also gave the country, despite all it’s differences, a reason to feel united. The girls learnt the words to the ‘World in Union’ Song at school, which is a legacy from the 1995 RWC. It was the first World Cup that South Africa were allowed to compete in after the end of Apartheid, which was held in South Africa where Nelson Mandela wore the iconic Springbok jersey, and which South Africa won. It has been played at every World Cup since and really sums up the hope that exists here for a future that everyone is striving to achieve. This year’s final was such a great day for everyone, despite England losing, and fun was had by all… except for the poor guy who was seen running through Lonehill in a pair of South African pants stretched over his shoulders, aka a mankini, waving a Springbok flag. His day was somewhat more sober. Next time I have no doubt that he will indeed ‘Back the Boks’!
Watching the semi finals against Wales.

Game day!

Split loyalties.

Laurence with his step mom, Bev, celebrating the win.


So, familiarity in the seasons, change with work, a budding future CEO, and national optimism have defined our month. Onwards to the end of the year as we gear up for summer, holidays, Christmas and lots of precious time with family.

Lots of love,

Jess x

It took a few days between writing this and posting it. Please hold Laurence and his family tightly in your thoughts and prayers, as his dad, Geoff, has sadly passed away. Thank you.



Monday, October 14, 2019

Is it a bird? Is it a bulb? No, it’s Dalmatian number 3!


Another month and yet more wonderful experiences. Spring has arrived, we have had family to stay, the children have performed beautifully in their school plays, and Buttercup 2, the preschool in Cosmo City, has opened in its new location, hurrah!

Spring officially arrived here in South Africa on the 1st of September. Whether it's in school, at hockey, or at work, everyone celebrates the occasion by wearing flowers. And having only rained once in the last six months here in Johannesburg, there is real anticipation and excitement for the rain to come.

My mum, Carol, and brother, Daniel, arrived at the beginning of September, and if you were wondering when that one rain shower happened, it was indeed whilst they were here. We concluded that in being British, they must have brought the weather with them! It hasn’t rained since.
With Mum and Dan on a visit to Liliesleaf.
Having a meal with Laurence's mum, Lynn, and stepdad, John.
We also had some very special guests visit us from Zambia. If we go back to 1998, my sister, Hannah, spent her gap year after school teaching at an Orphanage in Zambia. She met a very special young 12-year-old boy there bursting with potential. After returning home and telling my family about this boy, my mum decided to support him. Fast forward to 2019 and Albert is still a big part of our family. He came to our wedding 10 years ago, has since had his own family, and is only 1 exam away from becoming an accountant. He calls my mum, 'Mum', and his children, Caroline and AJ, call her 'Grandma'. Caroline is even named after my mum. Amelie, Elowen and Joel had an awesome time with their cousins here. We went to Gold Reef City, which is a theme park with a real penchant for wet rides. Having been before, we armed ourselves with waterproofs this time. We also went to Johannesburg Zoo, which was great fun although it did make me laugh standing in a zoo in Africa looking through the netting of an enclosure of a British swan. Laurence often had baffled moments in the UK and here I was in Africa having mine.
Raging Rapids, Gold Reef City.

Elowen, Joel, Caroline and Amelie at the Zoo

Dan, Elowen, Mum, AJ, Chile,Caroline, Joel, Albert and Me.
Amelie and Laurence were there somewhere too.

It was sad saying goodbye to everyone. A week of pining to go home followed, but I looked at a weather prediction for the UK, which was forecasting a hurricane and then snow, and decided to cheer up and enjoy this special time here in Africa.

The children all had school performances to finish off Term 3 at school. Joel was a bulb, and he grew beautifully when the rain fairies danced around him. The Spring Princess chased away King Winter after which we all celebrated with a picnic in the Kindergarten garden. The girls performed ‘Footprints into Fantasy’, a play which draws from many children’s novels. Elowen was a bird that flew out of a pie, to the tune of Queen’s, ‘I want to break free’. She was convinced that it was in fact sung by the Queen of England, but we thought that Freddie Mercury would have been happy with that title. Amelie was Dalmatian number 3, protecting a magic potion at Hogwarts School of Magic and Wizardry. She delivered her lines, danced and sang fantastically. The play was very professionally done with the children using those little microphones that you tape to your cheeks. If it wasn’t for a teacher forgetting to turn one of these microphones off, we would never have known that one of the little girls had had a really big itch on stage that she had wanted to scratch! A moment that had the whole audience is absolute stitches. It was a thoroughly enjoyable week of performances after which everyone was thankful for a school holiday.
Dalmatian number 3 
Elowen, having broken free of the pie!
I’ve continued with the preschool project in Cosmo City. We left off last month having built walls, fencing, a security gate, having dug a hole for a sandpit, and having laid some grass. This month saw the sandpit being built, which I was able to help with by using my newly acquired brick laying skills!

Phase 1 of the sandpit being built.

Sandpit complete.

Joel testing the sandpit out.

We finished laying the grass, and I planted an olive tree, the significance of which is a legacy of the Youth Day Massacre that I spoke about in the last blog. Since then, olive trees have been planted in memory of this tragedy, as a sign of peace and as a place of shade for the children of this country. I hope our little olive tree grows to offer this peace and protection in these children’s lives.
The lovely olive tree that we bought from
 the organic market at Joel's school. 

One of the children at the preschool, Titi, who is Joel’s kindred spirit, has a wonderfully gifted father, who is rather appropriately called Gift. Gift designed and erected a shaded area so that the children can play outside in the heat of the day. It is made in such a way that it can be easily drawn back in cooler weather. Gift and Martin, who is married to Tari the preschool owner, worked into the night to get it finished, as well as working together to lay a path for the children’s parents to use during pick up and drop off. As a result of all this work, the outdoor space is now finished and it’s a great feeling to have finally got there.
Martin and Gift erecting the shade 

Working into the night to finish it!

And it's up! Which completes the outside space. Yay!

Tari transformed the inside of the new preschool building at the beginning of September and the children have moved in. It’s bright and airy, and the children have space. They sing and play and run around madly like little children should. Tari is an amazing preschool teacher and the children are happy. Joel is a frequent visitor as well. He loves the food of porridge or pap, a corn-based starch that looks like mashed potato, and he loves the routine of the day, which includes a nap. And these children really can snore!

Writing and drawing time.
Joel learning his numbers too.

Puzzles and games.

Tari playing a maths game with the children.

Lunchtime! With Joel tucking in.

A snooze after lunch. My kind of day!

So, the new Buttercup 2 is officially open! Thank you again to all those who have supported this project. Tari, and all those living in extension 6 of Cosmo City are so grateful. I will update you on life at Buttercup 2 in future months.

Playing outside in the new preschool garden.

Goodbye from some happy little Buttercups.

So once again, there has been a lot going on here in Johannesburg with memories being made and experiences had. From birds to Dalmatians, bulbs to olive trees, British family to Zambian family, it’s been a month to treasure.

If there was one reason to want to come home though, you would find me shouting it, armed with a pillow, in the middle of the night…Mosquitoes! There would be no need for a microphone taped to my cheek for everyone to hear that!

Lots of love, Jess xxx



Saturday, August 31, 2019

When building a wall is a good thing…


An extra special post for an extra special month.

Without a hard hat in sight, and for some helpers, no shoes on their feet, this past month has been spent building an outdoor space for a preschool in the heart of a township. It’s been exciting, frustrating, exhausting but ultimately hugely satisfying; and we are days away from opening the doors to the newly upgraded Buttercup 2 Preschool. But before we get too excited, let's start at the beginning…

On a hot and sunny day (most likely) in March of this year, I was just dropping Joel off at his first preschool in South Africa, Buttercup in Lonehill, when a new coffee stand caught my eye. At 7.45 in the morning I was naturally attracted to the idea of a morning fix but was also intrigued as to why it had appeared. The lady selling coffee explained that the wife of one of the handymen at the school had set up a preschool in the township of Cosmo City and that they were raising money for it. I was naturally excited by the idea of this and it occurred to me that Joel’s preschool in the UK might also want to do some fundraising as well. Julie and the Shirley Preschool Team were instantly on board and so I organised for the handyman, Martin, to sneak me into the township to ask his wife, Tari, if there was something specific we could fund-raise for. On a hot and sunny day (most likely) a week later, he drove me through the bustling streets of Cosmo City where pedestrians, cars, taxis, and sewage flowing from burst pipes, were jostling for their place on the street. We arrived unscathed and I entered the government-built house that Martin and Tari live in, and in which they use the second bedroom to house the preschool. The room is about 3 metres by 3 metres, which feels about the size of a third bedroom in a 1930’s semi-detached house in the UK; and on that first day, 15 little faces sat sweetly waiting for my arrival. I spent some time with the children before chatting to Tari about their needs at the preschool. At this point I was thinking about equipment, maybe some books or some educational toys, as they literally have nothing, but the response was, “we really need an outdoor space”. Hopefully my panic didn’t show through as I took a tour of the plot to see what we could do. As with most township properties, any surrounding space has little outbuilding rooms built on to it which people live in, with a communal bathroom. This plot had a little corner enclosed by two outbuildings and a wall that was the potential spot. So, I drew up a plan with Tari for some fencing and a gate, and to put up some shade. My anxiety had subsided, and the project was good to go.
The gorgeous Buttercup 2 preschoolers.
I waited until June to get going as April and May were filled with netball, soccer and hockey; and Martin and Tari were away visiting family in Zimbabwe.

Just before I started, we had a public holiday in South Africa called Youth Day, which I had assumed was a day to celebrate the youth, a bit like Mother’s Day or Father’s Day. It was a day, however, that changed my approach to the preschool project and an important moment to include in its creation. I attended our local church, Gracepoint, which looks a bit like a game lodge with animals’ heads on the walls, but beautiful artistic ones, to find out more about this celebrated day. The children went off to Sunday school and I sat in the main hall. After a few songs we sat to watch a film and anyone with children in the room was asked to take them out. Armed with my British naivety I thought that maybe the film had a bit of swearing in it, but to my horror, we proceeded to watch a re-enactment of a massacre of the youth who were passively protesting in 1976 about being educated in Afrikaans, which the Apartheid Government at the time had decided to enforce. Whilst quietly weeping to myself and deciding that the warning should have asked all children and British people to leave the room, my weeping quickly turned to panic as all the Sunday school children began walking into the hall to encircle the congregation, each clutching a lit candle, and that one of these children was Joel. Thankfully there was only one child that ran out clutching their chin, whilst we listened to some of the children read poems and talk about the rights of children to an education, as they are the future of South Africa. They gave the analogy that those sitting in the shade of a tree, planted for them by a previous generation, must actively bring those out of the scorching heat and into the shade, that they themselves enjoy. I reflected that Amelie, Elowen and Joel sit in this shade, as do I, and it was at this moment that I decided they too should be a part of this preschool project even if taking them into the heart of a township was potentially a dangerous thing to do.


Amelie came with me on the first day of work. I had spent the days leading up to this moment watching Youtube clips on how to build a brick wall as the wall that was due to support some fencing, had fallen down. Amelie spent the morning hammering off cement from reclaimed bricks followed by an afternoon of dancing in the street with a tape measure. I successfully built a brick wall and came home exhausted but very pleased with myself. It had been a brilliant first day…or so I had thought…
Amelie chipping cement off reclaimed bricks.

Building a wall
using my Youtube expertise!
That evening we had a call from Tari saying that the house owner wanted to sell the property and that Martin and Tari would have to find a new house and location for the preschool. I was really frustrated that this had suddenly happened, but I tried to conceal it as their problem was far greater than mine. A few weeks passed and I received another phone call saying that a new location had been found but it had a much bigger outdoor space to enclose. I visited the site several times to meet the owner, William, to establish where any underground pipe work might be, and to design the new space. It required a lot of walls, fencing and gates, just to secure the area. The project had grown arms and legs, and I was a long way from just donating some books and toys. But nevertheless, I agreed to do it, but by now it had become a really intimidating task. I had also by this point asked our church in the UK, the St James Road Methodist Church, to support the project, which they were duly very happy to do.
The Plan

The preschool site.
The open door up the steps is the new preschool room.

The reverse view from the preschool door looking out.
Day One arrived again, and I went with Joel to start on the first wall. A foundation for a perimeter wall had been laid years ago but beyond that I was starting from scratch. Joel helped bring me bricks from a pile of reclaimed ones, as I mixed the cement and began to build the wall. I felt stressed and alone at this point, which was repeatedly heightened by the presence of a low hanging washing line that I kept getting my hair tangled in. Joel migrated to the street to play with the local children after his initial concern that they were outside without their grown-ups. I at least enjoyed watching him play with the children, who were running about bare foot, with rubbish and broken glass strewn everywhere. I went home not able to see how I would get this project finished. I had a deadline of September.
Joel playing with the local children.
On Day Two I arrived early, frantically thinking about what I had to do. As I pulled up at the site, I felt a clunk. And as I got out of the car it dawned on me what I had done, I had driven over the wall I had built the previous day and knocked it down at one end. This was perhaps my lowest point, and after moving the bricks into a pile and finding a dead rat, I headed straight home. After receiving a text from Tari asking me where the wall had gone, I decided I needed help.

Nelson, a friend of Martin and Tari’s who I had asked to make a steel security gate, was also a brick layer and all-round everything man. So, I spoke with him about the walls and he was very happy to help. It was great to have someone else there on site, and Nelson, with his brother in law, worked swiftly erecting the walls. I had a man called Trevor make some pallet fencing and gates, and before we knew it the outdoor space was coming together.
Nelson sitting by the first wall with his brother-in-law.

Nelson building the first wall.

The walls finished!

Bringing the pallet fencing to the preschool.

Nelson, having just made the security gate,
 outside his home in Cosmo.

Our wonderful friends, the Hamilton's from our church in the UK, came to visit, bearing lots of gifts for the preschool, and who kindly gave up a day of their holiday to help with the project. With all our children in tow, we descended on the preschool to paint some of the fencing, and to start digging a sandpit. After a hard day's work, the preschool with all its colour, was now looking great. We even, incredibly, met up with Julie from the Shirley Preschool, who came out to South Africa on holiday.
The children priming the fence.

Painting on the wonderful Buttercup colours.

The start of the sandpit.

Elowen and friends shovelling out the earth.

Amelie having a turn.

Joel found the dead rat!
The final push was back to just me, which meant that it was back to slow progress. But by now I was familiar with all the families on the plot and I had offers of help, particularly from Tari and her daughter, Clementine, and a young man called Ronald. We continued with the painting, spent a long time levelling the ground, and laying the lawn. We even had an uninvited visitor...a red scorpion!
Painting the primer on before the colour.

Ronald putting primer on one of the gates.

With Ronald and Tari levelling and preparing the ground
 for the lawn to be laid.

Laying the lawn!

Our little uninvited friend, the scorpion!

A lot of people in South Africa come from Zimbabwe, and Ronald is one of these displaced people. Everyone's life here is unimaginable. Ronald was orphaned before he was ten because of AIDS and works in South Africa to support his grandmother and his brother. He's just twenty and I've loved working with him as have I loved working with Nelson, also from Zim, and getting to know his family.

So, we have reached the end of August, and like an unsatisfying end to a Kevin McCloud Grand Designs, we haven't quite finished. We will need another week before it is ready for children, and a further week of work whilst the children are there, which I will update you on in a future blog. But for now, here is a picture of Buttercup 2.
With Tari and Ronald laying the grass.
So close to being finished!
On the days that I’ve been over to Cosmo City, whether it’s been moving or laying bricks, painting fencing or digging a sandpit, levelling the ground and laying lawn, I’ve really enjoyed meeting the locals and getting to know them as they’ve migrated towards the action. It’s difficult hearing people’s stories and knowing that life is so hard for so many people. But hopefully this little preschool, Buttercup 2, has provided locals with work and given them a wage to support their families; has given Tari a bigger and better business with which to support her own young family; and has given families in the UK an insight into life in Africa plus a brilliant cause to support. But most importantly, it has given these 15 children of Cosmo City and those that will follow, a happy, exciting and inspiring environment to be inquisitive learners in. I hope in a small way, Amelie, Elowen, Joel and I, with the support of Laurence and all those who've been involved, will have helped bring these township children out of the scorching heat and into the shade; after all, they are the future of this beautiful country.

Lots of love from Cosmo City, South Africa.

Jess xxx

The children with their new books.

Having fun with the preschoolers.
With Tari, the head of Buttercup 2, and a wonderful friend.

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