Willmore Adventures: July 2023

Almost five years have passed since we embarked on our adventures in South Africa. And whilst we wondered how a decision to leave could ever come about, given our love for life in SA's sunny climes, we have sadly reached the end. The complications with Laurence losing his citizenship and consequently the rest of us unable to renew visas has meant that uprooting our lives has become the easier option rather than fighting home affairs. So, the last few months have been filled with our last experiences in South Africa plus the very many goodbyes we have had to say having made a multitude of friends and with leaving such a loving family behind. Here begins one of my last South African posts…

In April we said goodbye to Laurence’s brother Gavin and fiancée Gabby as they began on their own adventure, teaching English in South Korea. We took them (and their many cases) to the airport to see them off. With no surprise to anyone, their luggage was officially over the weight limit for the flight accruing a fee from the airline of R2500. With surprise to everyone, however, was the response from the check in lady who, without pause for thought, suggested they slip R2000 of cash in their passports to her for the full amount to be waivered. Gav and Gabs, also without pause for thought, duly accepted the dodgy discount, and handed over the passport and cash combo, making the check in lady R2000 the richer through her sneaky side hustle. It was a seamless example of how entrenched corruption is in South African society. If politicians can do it so blatantly and without consequence, then why can’t the common man? Except that there are consequences. In the case of the dubious airport transaction, the airline missed out on funds that, when mounted up, could lead to dangerous corners being cut or the company having to fold. And in the case of the South African Government, the country’s infrastructure is collapsing as the electricity, water and road networks are not being maintained and government run entities are having to be bailed out by the taxpayer. An example of how this plays out for us is that a journey to school can be rather eventful. A burst pipe can spray a fountain of water in the air causing an impromptu car wash; switched off traffic lights can mean that people living under the trees on the side of the road can start directing the traffic; and endless potholes can create a rather interesting assault course keeping me on my toes. And this can all happen before 8 am whilst doing homework (in French) in the car. More serious consequences have been that the water can get contaminated as has been the case in the town of Hammanskraal (north of Johannesburg), where there has been a cholera outbreak and nearly 50 deaths as a result. Our cleaner Margaret’s sister lives there and Margaret is too frightened to visit. It really is a very sad situation. There are however some incredible people who relentlessly raise the issues, and South Africans are really hoping that one day they will be able to change the party in charge, the ANC. Let’s hope their work is not in vain and that change comes before it is too late.

Gabs' brother, sister in law, and nephew, Gabs,
Gav, Robs, Laurence and Me saying goodbye
to Gav and Gabs at the Airport

One of many informal settlements on the side
of the road on our journey to school.

People from the informal settlements directing
traffic when the lights are turned off.

Andrew, my friend from the informal settlements
who would often direct traffic
(and who was arrested for doing so...)

As a result of our decision to leave South Africa, it meant that we had to consider where to go next. Instead of just returning to the UK, which would have been the obvious and perhaps most sensible choice to have made, we thought we’d have a bit of fun (some might call it a midlife crisis) and go somewhere different. A tropical island in the middle of the Indian Ocean sounded attractive for some reason so Laurence and I jumped on a plane, leaving the children with Granny, and went for a recce around Mauritius. A country with both French and English spoken locally, some great schools, and a beach always close by, it sold itself rather quickly and we are now looking forward to our next adventure there in August.

The 4 hour flight from SA to Mauritius.

The ocean lapping at the shore,
which is protected by a coral reef

An evening stroll at what will be
our local beach in Mauritius.

On return from Mauritius, we had to complete the small task of selling and packing up our home. As you can imagine this was conducted with love and grace, joy, and laughs… A fly on the wall might have given a different description like ‘stress’ and ‘melt downs’ but we got there in the end handing over the keys to the house on the same day that we jumped on a plane to leave South Africa. Two weeks before the big hand over however, Johannesburg experienced an unusual event, an earthquake! Measuring 5 on the Richter scale, it was enough to wake us up in a bit of a panic. Amongst the clanging gates and shaking walls, my first thought was, ‘if this causes cracks in the house, will the sale still go through?’ Laurence’s first thought was to check his phone (as any good 21^st century hooman bean should do) because if anyone was to know what was going on then surely it would be google! And google did not disappoint. With all the mobile phones shaking in Johannesburg, we were not only able to confirm instantly that it was indeed an earthquake, but that google also knew where the epicentre was…amazing! A couple of theories emerged. One was that it was the earth adjusting after the huge earthquake in Turkey, and the second was that illegal mining had caused a shaft to collapse. Illegal mining is apparently a massive industry in SA with those who take part known as Zama-zamas, the Zulu for ‘chance takers’. Often poor immigrants, who are just trying to survive and support a family, head underground into former industrial mines to look for gold but where many lose their lives in the process. A desperate situation with potentially massive consequences. I wonder how South Africa will deal with it…we will have to watch from the side lines from now on.

Google's instant response
to the Earthquake.

As always, there is never a dull moment living in South Africa and the last 3 months have been as eye opening as ever. We’ve lived the consequences of corruption and that of earthquake causing desperation alongside the privilege of choice with our mission to explore the tropical island of Mauritius. But now the South African adventure is over and it’s time to say goodbye. Having had the most incredible 5 years here with family and friends who’ve enriched and shaped our lives, and experiences we’ll never forget, it’s time for a new chapter. I will write a ‘round up post’ and a ‘final project post’ once a particular project has been completed, but for now, it’s goodbye from me.

Lots of love,

Jess xxx