The End of our Willmore Adventures in South Africa

 Almost five years have passed since we embarked on our adventures in South Africa. And whilst we wondered how a decision to leave could ever come about, given our love for life in SA's sunny climes, we have sadly reached the end. The complications with Laurence losing his citizenship and consequently the rest of us unable to renew visas has meant that uprooting our lives has become the easier option rather than fighting home affairs. So, the last few months have been filled with our last experiences in South Africa plus the very many goodbyes we have had to say having made a multitude of friends and with leaving such a loving family behind. Here begins one of my last South African posts…

 In April we said goodbye to Laurence’s brother Gavin and fiancée Gabby as they began on their own adventure, teaching English in South Korea. We took them (and their many cases) to the airport to see them off. With no surprise to anyone, their luggage was officially over the weight limit for the flight accruing a fee from the airline of R2500. With surprise to everyone, however, was the response from the check in lady who, without pause for thought, suggested they slip R2000 of cash in their passports to her for the full amount to be waivered. Gav and Gabs, also without pause for thought, duly accepted the dodgy discount, and handed over the passport and cash combo, making the check in lady R2000 the richer through her sneaky side hustle. It was a seamless example of how entrenched corruption is in South African society. If politicians can do it so blatantly and without consequence, then why can’t the common man? Except that there are consequences. In the case of the dubious airport transaction, the airline missed out on funds that, when mounted up, could lead to dangerous corners being cut or the company having to fold. And in the case of the South African Government, the country’s infrastructure is collapsing as the electricity, water and road networks are not being maintained and government run entities are having to be bailed out by the taxpayer. An example of how this plays out for us is that a journey to school can be rather eventful. A burst pipe can spray a fountain of water in the air causing an impromptu car wash; switched off traffic lights can mean that people living under the trees on the side of the road can start directing the traffic; and endless potholes can create a rather interesting assault course keeping me on my toes. And this can all happen before 8 am whilst doing homework (in French) in the car. More serious consequences have been that the water can get contaminated as has been the case in the town of Hammanskraal (north of Johannesburg), where there has been a cholera outbreak and nearly 50 deaths as a result. Our cleaner Margaret’s sister lives there and Margaret is too frightened to visit. It really is a very sad situation. There are however some incredible people who relentlessly raise the issues, and South Africans are really hoping that one day they will be able to change the party in charge, the ANC. Let’s hope their work is not in vain and that change comes before it is too late.

Gabs' brother, sister in law, and nephew, Gabs,
Gav, Robs, Laurence and Me saying goodbye
 to Gav and Gabs at the Airport

One of many informal settlements on the side
 of the road on our journey to school.

People from the informal settlements directing
 traffic when the lights are turned off.

Andrew, my friend from the informal settlements
 who would often direct traffic
(and who was arrested for doing so...)

As a result of our decision to leave South Africa, it meant that we had to consider where to go next. Instead of just returning to the UK, which would have been the obvious and perhaps most sensible choice to have made, we thought we’d have a bit of fun (some might call it a midlife crisis) and go somewhere different. A tropical island in the middle of the Indian Ocean sounded attractive for some reason so Laurence and I jumped on a plane, leaving the children with Granny, and went for a recce around Mauritius. A country with both French and English spoken locally, some great schools, and a beach always close by, it sold itself rather quickly and we are now looking forward to our next adventure there in August.

The 4 hour flight from SA to Mauritius.

The ocean lapping at the shore,
which is protected by a coral reef

An evening stroll at what will be
our local beach in Mauritius.

On return from Mauritius, we had to complete the small task of selling and packing up our home. As you can imagine this was conducted with love and grace, joy, and laughs… A fly on the wall might have given a different description like ‘stress’ and ‘melt downs’ but we got there in the end handing over the keys to the house on the same day that we jumped on a plane to leave South Africa. Two weeks before the big hand over however, Johannesburg experienced an unusual event, an earthquake! Measuring 5 on the Richter scale, it was enough to wake us up in a bit of a panic. Amongst the clanging gates and shaking walls, my first thought was, ‘if this causes cracks in the house, will the sale still go through?’ Laurence’s first thought was to check his phone (as any good 21^st century hooman bean should do) because if anyone was to know what was going on then surely it would be google! And google did not disappoint. With all the mobile phones shaking in Johannesburg, we were not only able to confirm instantly that it was indeed an earthquake, but that google also knew where the epicentre was…amazing! A couple of theories emerged. One was that it was the earth adjusting after the huge earthquake in Turkey, and the second was that illegal mining had caused a shaft to collapse. Illegal mining is apparently a massive industry in SA with those who take part known as Zama-zamas, the Zulu for ‘chance takers’. Often poor immigrants, who are just trying to survive and support a family, head underground into former industrial mines to look for gold but where many lose their lives in the process. A desperate situation with potentially massive consequences. I wonder how South Africa will deal with it…we will have to watch from the side lines from now on.

Google's instant response
 to the Earthquake.

As always, there is never a dull moment living in South Africa and the last 3 months have been as eye opening as ever. We’ve lived the consequences of corruption and that of earthquake causing desperation alongside the privilege of choice with our mission to explore the tropical island of Mauritius. But now the South African adventure is over and it’s time to say goodbye. Having had the most incredible 5 years here with family and friends who’ve enriched and shaped our lives, and experiences we’ll never forget, it’s time for a new chapter. I will write a ‘round up post’ and a ‘final project post’ once a particular project has been completed, but for now, it’s goodbye from me.

Lots of love,

Jess xxx

Just a lovely pic
of the kiddywinks.

Meeting up with my lovely friend, June, who
 has also moved from SA to Mauritius.

Celebrating the Coronation of King Charles from SA.

Elowen turing 11!

Elowen and her buddies off to
 learn to surf in Durban.

Elowen and her buddy
during surfing lessons.

All Creatures Great and Greedy…

At last! Not wanting to research an essay for my teacher training has finally allowed me the time to write a post! Three seasons have passed since last contact; Summer, Spring, and Summer; as we were lucky enough to be in the UK for July and August, followed by a beautiful Spring and wonderfully hot Summer here in South Africa these past few months. So, what have the Willmores’ been up to during all this time?

Firstly, our visit to the UK was amazing. To see family and friends after four years away was such a treat. And a week away in France showing off our French skills was the icing on the cake. On return home to South Africa a new school year loomed for the children with Amelie moving up to College, as did a visit to Home Affairs to pick up the children’s newly acquired citizenship. Or so we thought…

On the beach in France with my family.

After joining this queue and then that queue and then the other queue, we finally got to a desk to pick up the children’s South African Birth Certificates. On finding out that Laurence had acquired British citizenship without permission from the South African government, instead of the children being given theirs, Home Affairs had decided to take Laurence’s away. We were shocked, and Laurence was suddenly a foreigner in his own country. Dealing with government that doesn’t function is a painful anxiety inducing process so, like ostriches, we decided to bury our heads in the sand and leave that problem for another day. South Africans are adept at circumventing the government as part of their way of life. People here are installing solar panels and bore holes at a rate of knots whilst the electricity and water infrastructure implode all around. A desire to stay in this beautiful country, or no choice to leave it, is an ever-present topic of debate.

Just before Laurence lost his citizenship, we crumbled under the children’s pressure to get a dog. And why get only one when you can get two! This led to the arrival of Poppy and Libby, two little Yorkie cross Maltese poodles. With one being loyal, disciplined, and intelligent, and the other being completely wild and unruly, they reflect their owners’ personalities rather well. And with (almost) no favourite between them, I will leave you to decide who mirrors who. They have been a wonderful addition to our family and have helped Elowen and Joel with their fear of dogs. This being a good thing out here in South Africa where a lot of people seem to keep them for added security. It is something I have unfortunately been on the sharp end of, having rescued both a neighbour’s dog and our puppy Libby from the jaws of a bull terrier who had escaped from its property. A trip to hospital for me and our neighbour, and many trips to the vet for our neighbour’s little dog and our little Libby too, was the unfortunate result. It was savage and frightening, and a reminder that people taking things into their own hands is not always a good thing. We are all recovering ok thank goodness.

Amelie holding Poppy, Joel, and Elowen holding Libby.

Staying with the theme of animals, we spent a long weekend away on a game farm in rural Limpopo province. Idyllic thatched cottages nestled in the foothills of Africa; one would be fooled into thinking it was a million miles from anything. The monkeys, however, must have been laughing at such an assumption. Within 24 hours of arriving, they had raided our idyllic thatched cottages, leaving a trail of banana skins in their wake! Lesson 1 was to lock the windows. Lesson 2 was to carry a mop whilst eating, as we found out during breakfast on the patio one morning. A monkey observing our banquet from a nearby tree was clearly tempted by our granola. He promptly jumped down and started to chase me round the breakfast table grabbing a handful from my bowl as he ran. A conveniently placed mop allowed me to regain some control, as I clutched it like a sword and shooed him away. He retreated after a long standoff, which allowed us to continue breakfast, mop in hand. A deer stood watching the whole affair; she was obviously used to all forms of monkey business. As the most senior monkeys, we duly apologised, and she carried on with her day. 

Didn't even throw them in the bin!

Me and the mop vs the monkey,
with the deer watching on...

The three munchkins by the pool.

Family time.

Someone spent too long
 on the beach in their speedos!

 Following our weekend away, Joel and I had to dust off our coats as we were off to the UK. Joel’s visa for South Africa had run out and we no longer had a way of renewing it. Bar for the ice-cold weather, it was awesome timing, as I got to celebrate my nephew Simeon’s 7^th, my brother Daniel’s 30^th and my 40^th birthday in the UK with family. Joel learnt how to toast a crumpet on an open fire with a toasting fork; it doesn’t get more British than that! And Simeon learnt how to blow a loud and annoying sound on a South African trumpet called a vuvuzela; it doesn’t get more South African than that! Thankfully we left the vuvuzela in the UK with Simeon to terrorise my sister, Hannah, and brother-in-law Rich, much to their dismay!

40 and 30! South Africans would call my brother
 a Laat Lammetjie, which means late lamb.

The winter version of my family.

The British support for Ukraine is amazing.
And I'm proud of my mum for hosting a Ukrainian family.

Joel toasting crumpets.

Simeon with his Vuvuzela. The South African
supporter's instrument of choice at a football match.

It was back to the sun in SA for the rest of Summer, to continue my 40^th celebrations with Laurence’s family, and to return to my studies as I train to become a qualified teacher. Along with my military experience, I’ll have children leopard crawling and marching to the tune of spellings and maths sums in no time!

It’s been 8 months of ups and downs. A theme of greedy animals seems to be a fitting description running through it all. We hope that politics recovers, South Africa recovers, Libby and I recover, and that Laurence’s citizenship is also recovered. There is a South African spirit that makes all this possible…

From the wilds of Africa to the wintery cold of the UK. Autumn and Spring are on their way. And with a new season comes a new chapter. On to the next adventure!

Lots of love to you all,

Jess x

A few extra photos...

The day after the Queen died.

Saying Good bye to emigrating friends.

And I love my students too!

The Boyz.

Christmas celebrations at Riversands Primary School.

Grade 2 Christmas fun.

How many children can fit in my car?

It turns out that 24 can...
as I took them to the preschool graduation.

The graduating children at Buttercup in December.

Elowen on the rugby field playing against
 the local Alexandra township rugby club.

Joel and his taekwondo.

A still from a video of Amelie playing rugby with some
of the French rugby team after a match against South Africa.

The end of another wonderful season
 with my hockey family.

Let Loose!

Homepage: Willmore Adventures in South Africa

Being let loose with a paintbrush at a preschool has been one of the most fun things I’ve done here in South Africa. And being let loose with a group of volunteers and some struggling Grade 2s at a primary school has been one of the most rewarding things I’ve done here. Being trusted with both these projects as a foreigner has been a massive privilege too. Buttercup Preschool, which I fondly got involved with in 2019 has had a 2022 makeover, and the Riversands Primary School which I helped at until COVID struck in 2020, is back up and running! 2022 is going full steam ahead!

Since the original build at Buttercup Preschool in 2019 where an outside area was enclosed for the children to play in, it was time for an injection of love to improve the inside and outside spaces for the babies, toddlers and preschoolers. The update was not just a fun idea though, it had become a necessity for Tari the preschool owner too. Little did we know that back in 2019 we had enclosed and secured the preschool with such success that no one walking past knew that it even existed, and numbers were down to just 6 (COVID also played a part in this too). Tari charges the equivalent of £22.50 a month per child, which covers full time childcare and 3 meals a day. With rent for her family and the preschool to pay, plus all the food to buy, she was not covering expenses and more children were desperately needed to keep the preschool afloat and keep Tari with a roof over her head. Whether foolish or not, Tari asked me for some help to turn things around. Instantly my Pandora's project box flew open, and my unqualified and inexperienced cogs started turning. What could we do to advertise the preschool? The answer we arrived at was flyers, posters and a painted wall along the front of the preschool. So, off to work I went to help achieve this.

As an aside, this past year has been a wonderful friend making year for me. I have met some fabulous British people where the excuse of being British to justify a conversation has led to some amazing friendships emerging. The reason wouldn’t hold much weight in the UK but in a foreign land, it is strangely unifying, and my British network has grown.

So, to my British friends I went for some advice about Buttercup Preschool. Two friends, Katy and Alicia, had preschool experience and were able to help with the flyers and posters, and one friend, Emily, who is a vet was willing to get her hands dirty and help with the painting. It was great to have a little team around me and to be able to share the experience with others. After about a month of work, the outside wall looked better than we could have imagined, and the inside space looked fresh and inviting. The garden gained a gazebo for shade and some garden toys given by my mum, and we fixed Tari and Martin’s car to provide a transport service as well. With posters up and flyers distributed we waited for some enquiries…And then it began! The phone starting ringing and people started to visit. New faces started to arrive at the school and as of June 2022, there are 17 happy children running around, with new ones arriving every month. Tari and Martin have a thriving preschool once again and I get to enjoy the energy and high spirits of the children every Thursday that I visit.

Emily and some local children
hard at work on the base layer.

Me and Emily painting the finer details.

The little ones helped with their hand prints too.

The finished front wall!

With Tari painting the inside.

Dropping off the finished
flyers and posters.

Alicia testing out the new blackboard with the
little ones after teaching them some songs.

Me, Tari and Alicia.

Practicing letters in the sand. 

Spotting the 'a' in the sentence.

Making a 'ssssss'

The children testing out their new garden toys.

Back in February when the Buttercup update was taking place, the South African government relaxed the COVID rules in schools allowing children to return to fulltime education and not be restricted to small classes on a rotating timetable. With the children back to 5 days a week, the Riversands Primary School was now able to let the children who struggle with reading and writing in English be taken out of class for some extra help. So, our team of volunteers who had done this prior to COVID, needed no encouraging when the law was changed. We were back to school in a flash, preparing the classroom and all the equipment, ready for the chaos that excited 7- and 8-year-olds bring. This return to school had also afforded me the opportunity to take on a leadership role alongside a good friend Kate. Liaising with teachers, structuring the mornings, organising volunteers and children… It’s perhaps a bit late in the game to be stepping into a role like this now but I’m so enjoying a newfound confidence in myself and the satisfaction that comes with doing a job well. The little ones are such a pleasure too. Some cheeky, some quiet, some frenetic, some competitive, they are a real bag of all sorts where there is never a dull moment. But despite all their differences, they are however united by their extreme poverty, their complete lack of necessities like clothes and shoes that fit, and a learning difficulty to top it all off. So, as teachers, faced with these obstacles, we find ways to make the children feel able to achieve, and we use different methods of teaching, often involving a healthy dose of fun and games to realise this. Our hope is that by the end of the South African school year in December, most children will be reading and writing, and that the intervention that we have provided will put them on a better trajectory in life, however small that change might be. And such is the bond that we form with our pupils, that children in the older grades who we used to teach in years gone by come up to visit us all the time. It’s a wonderful community which I love being a part of.

Kate and I who run the reading program together.

Learning his first phonics sounds.

Some of this year's cuties in the reading program.

This year's Grade 5's coming up to visit.

So, June draws to a close, and with it the end of the school year for Amelie, Elowen and Joel. They have had such a happy year filled with friendships, French, rugby, chess, cycling, rollerblading, hip hop dancing, graffiti, and so much more. We look forward to a lovely long break now before we start again in September. And for that break we have chosen a top destination to visit….

Look out England, the Willmore’s are heading home!

We look forward to seeing friends and family soon.

Lots of love

Jess xxx  

Previous Post: Fresh Water, Salt Water, No Water, Floods!

A few extra photos...

Amelie our chess champ.

Elowen with a class graffiti project.

The graffiti panels were installed at the township
creche supported by the French school.

Elowen playing games with the Creche children.

Elowen and class mates reading to the little children.

Joel in a school play...speaking in FRENCH!

Happy Fathers Day to Laurence.